The beauty of nothing: Lanzarote

After reading this title, you might not understand the reasons for spending your holidays in Lanzarote. I hope you will change your opinion after reading this article.

Lanzarote, called “Conejera” by the islanders, will surprise you for its spectacular and surprising landscape that makes it very different from the other six islands of The Canary Islands. It’s located in the Atlantic Ocean very close to the African coast, only 120 km away. The dimensions of the island are 60 km from north to south and 25 km from east to west. It has the mountain ranges of Famara in the north with beautiful cliffs surrounding a wide, wonderful beach, and the Ajaches in the south. They aren’t high mountains; the highest peak, is only 670 m above sea level. To the north of the island, the Chinijo Archipelago which is now one of the largest marine reserves in Europe.



The Chinijo Archipelago





Famara beach



The most representative characteristic of the island’s landscape is its volcanoes. Lanzarote is known as “the island of volcanoes”.

Throughout its history, there have been many intensive eruptions that have changed the topography and created more than 300 volcanoes. You will feel like you are in a lunar landscape, seeing craters, lava flows, volcanic material, ashes and lapili.

 

From 1730 to 1736 (2,053 days), the island was hit by several volcanic eruptions. Lava covered a quarter of the island’s surface, including the most fertile soil area. Eleven villages disappeared. 

One hundred smaller volcanoes appeared in the area called “The Mountains of Fire”. After this, other volcanic eruptions occurred in 1824 which were less violent than the others. The lava fields make up a botanical environment of great importance. The vegetation is composed of species that are adapted to live in harsh conditions of little rain, poor soil and wind too. There are more than 180 different species of lichens, some of them endemic.

Due to deforestation and draught, many people were forced to emigrate. The natives of Lanzarote (called “conejeros”) have  adapted to these unfavourable living conditions and had sought alternatives to develop agriculture. The soil is very difficult to cultivate, as there is no water and so much wind, but the island’s residents have been capable to invent different ways of farming. One example of their cleverness is Geria Valley. Farmers have excavated and removed the lava to find the soil; they have then planted their grapevines in holes 4-5 m wide and 2-3 m deep and covered them with lava. As the lava is porous, it absorbs the humidity. Every vine is surrounded by a stone wall to protect it from the wind. Lanzarote produces various types of high-quality wine. 

It’s worth mentioning a famous “conejero”, Cesar Manrique. He was a painter, sculptor and architect from Lanzarote who loved his island and tried to protect it from the urbanistic speculation and the development of uncontrolled tourism. He had an important influence on planning regulations. For example, you won’t see any tall buildings on the island and all the buildings are painted in the traditional colours. After living in New York, he returned to live permanently on Lanzarote. He developed different projects to attract tourism and show the unusual beauty of the island, but in a different way from other tourism destinations. Manrique's own house is built inside the volcanic bubbles of a eruption site.

He designed and built different spaces perfectly integrated with the nature, such as “Los Jameos del agua”, “La Cueva de los verdes,” “Cactus Garden” or “The Mirador del Río”. Unfortunately, he died in a car accident in 1992, but his legacy lives on. Lanzarote was declared a Biosphere Reserve by Unesco in 1993.

Here are some important areas in the island which are very attractive to visit:

The oldest volcanic area of La Corona in the north and “The Mountains of Fire” in the central-south, called the National Park of Timanfaya. There you will see a volcanic landscape, spectacular lava flows and volcanic debris. There are exhibitions of geothermal experiments in Timanfaya and you can even cook an egg with the heat of the earth. If you wish to know a little more about the volcanoes and the processes that formed the island, you should definitely visit the Volcano Museum.

“El Mirador del Río” is one of Cesar Manrique's works. From this spot you have an impressive view of the Chinijo Archipiélago as well as some amazing sunsets.

 

Other places of interest are “La Cueva de los Verdes" and “Los Jameos del Agua”. These are volcanic tubes that were formed by the flow of lava, which advanced while the surface was solidified.

“Los Jameos del Agua” is the most visited tourist attraction. Cesar Manrique transformed part of the longest volcanic tube into a subterranean paradise. Inside it, there is a small lake inhabited by blind white crab. The volcanic tube has been transformed into a beautiful garden with tropical plants and an auditorium used for concerts and spectacles.

Another creation is “The Cactus Garden” with more than a thousand different varieties of cacti.

Other spectacular landscapes are:  

“Los Hervideros”. This is a  natural formation where the waves strike violently against the holes in the lava and shoot up to the surface, as if the water were boiling.

“La Laguna de los Clicos”, situated in the centre of the crater of “La Montaña de El Golfo”, is a lake of intense green water.

“Las Salinas del Janubio”.- A place of great scientific interest where not only the fauna is protected, but also the traditional method of extracting salt from the seawater. Before the eruptions of 1730-1736, it was the best natural harbour on Lanzarote, but the eruptions created a sand bar and a lake called La Caleta de Janubio.

Lanzarote is a great place for water sports like sailing, swimming, diving, windsurfing and kitesurf.

I now invite you to discover the island on your own. There are many interesting things to do apart from organized excursions

1. Don’t  forget to pack your boots.

2. Ask for information about walking routes or walk wherever you want to climb to the top of a volcano.

3. Feel the solitude and enjoy walking as if you were a survivor of a disaster. Then you will understand me when I say “nothing is beautiful”.

4. Don't miss the sunsets from “The Mountains of Fire” or “ The Mirador del Río”. The variety of hues of pink, brown and blue are impressive and unforgettable.

5. And for the dinner, eat “wrinkled” potatoes with “mojo” sauce and try the malvasian wine.

 

THE LIFE SAILOR