The art of fashion

Jean Paul Gaultier's last Madrid exhibition: The Universe of Fashion. From the sidewalk to the catwalk.

This exhibition was the last one I have seen and I liked it so much that I am going to share it with you. I hadn't ever seen an exhibition about a fashion designer but it was very spectacular as well as instructive. Unfortunately, it ended on January 6th, but I will try to explain the best of it.

One of the most interesting things about the exhibition was the use of mannequins with animated faces. This was achieved by projecting holograms on the surface of their faces and the results were surprising, as you could see their eyes and mouths moving as if they were almost real. Also, many of them speak and sing, which makes them seen even more human.

The exhibition was divided among seven rooms, which were: 

- THE ODYSSEY OF JEAN PAUL GAULTIER

- THE BOUDOIR

- SKIN DEEP

- PUNK CANCAN

- URBAN JUNGLE

- METROPOLI

- JEAN PAUL GAULTIER & PEDRO ALMODÓVAR

The first room is called The Odyssey of Jean Paul Gaultier, which included a mannequin that resembled the designer and analyzed Gaultier's interest in sailor-style striped shirts. It's possible to notice the influence of women (he was brought up by women), and he is fascinated with typical female figures, such as mermaids and virgins.

The next room, The Boudoir, explores Gaultier's fascination for underwear, which culminated in his collaboration with Madonna during her Blonde Ambition Tour, and the invention of her legendary conical falsies. He reinterprets corsets, symbols of the imprisioned female body. Although Gaultier's corseted women seem to be a negation of feminist struggles, in reality the corset, far from being an instrument of torture that restricts women's bodies, now embodies the new empowerment of the female and forms a counterpoint to the male jacket, distant progeny of the medieval knight's suit of armour.

Skin Deep is a daring and provocative gallery with clothes inspired by themes of slavery and the art of the human body. In opposition to the rule of thinness, he likes to show the sensuality of plus sizes. The designer also introduces a diversity of genres, offering everyone the freedom to choose their own identity: über woman, butch, trophy girl, boy-toy... He writes a new page in the history of fashion, exploring masculine, feminine, androgynous and alternative conventions with new ideas, such as his skirt for men.

Punk Cancan presents the dichotomy between the typical customer luxury French couture and the street punks of London. The designer reinterprets the hallmarks of Parisian women: beret, trench coat, cigarette holder, houndstooth checks, gingham and baguette. At the same time, after his trip to London, he starts exploring a non-conformist fashion, inspired by the punks of Trafalgar Square, and rock stars such as David Bowie. Penury would force him to be inventive: the total rebellion, trash and "destroy" looks appealed to him.

Urban Jungle analyses the designer's multicultural influences. From hussars, mongols, and Jews to Frida Kahlo and China, he shows his fascination with differences. He combines worlds that have been isolated because of fashion standards, mixing societies and individuals separated by language, custom and geography. He creates a blend of Africa and Europe by making boubous out of miniskirts and placing fezzes on his models' heads.  

In Metropoli he turns for inspiration to the science fiction universe and the sounds of new wave and house music. He uses different materials, from vinyl, lycra and neoprene to prêt à porter, and creates innovative blends like neoprene-coated leather, 3D textiles and even inflatable fabrics. He also shows his first pieces of electronic jewellery. This futurist vision of fashion is also reflected in his collaborations with pop-rock stars who wear his designs onstage or in their videos: Tina Turner, Nirvana, Lady Gaga, Red Hot Chili Peppers, Depeche Mode, Beyoncé, Kylie Minoge and, of course, Madonna. Gaultier goes so far as to create costumes for French ballets and even for flamenco dancers such as Joaquín Cortés. 

Jean Paul Gaultier & Pedro Almodóvar shows the relationship between designer and film director. Although Almodóvar isn't the only film director which whom Gaultier has worked, he is definitely  the one he has collaborated most, and with his designs he has been able to heighten the drama of Almodóvar movies. Kika, Bad Education and most recently, The Skin I Live In, are some of the films on which they have worked together, and you can notice Gaultier's unmistakable style in the irreverent costumes in each one.

 

This has been a summary of this fascinating exhibition. The pity is that when you finish visiting it you can't try any of these wonderful dresses on...

                                                                                                                   Gajito