Syria, an ancient gem

I travelled to Syria in mid-February 2009. It seemed to me a fascinating country, quiet, safe and with a great incentive: excellent food.

Syria has been often described as the cradle of civilization and has played a unique role in the history of mankind. Some of the achievements of humanity began in ancient Syria and later spread throughout the world. The secrets of agriculture and metallurgy were discovered in this land, and the first alphabet was invented here as well. Religion, philosophy, commercial language, systems of urban development, diplomatic and cultural exchange, all germinated within the geographical area of Syria.

With these ideas in my head I landed in Damascus, the capital, and there I was surprised by the reality of a city of contrasts, with modern areas not appreciably different from any Western city, and other very different areas nearby with authentic Arab tastes, smells and colours.





Damascus, declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1979, is considered the oldest continuously inhabited city in the world. The earliest reference to this city confirms its existence in the third millennium BC. This colourful town is full of ancient monuments that are the evidence of the many eras and peoples that have inhabited it throughout history.

The wall surrounding the old city was built during the Roman era and hides a maze of streets with some of Syria’s most fascinating attractions. One is the Omayas Mosque, built in a location which has been a place of worship for more than three millennia, and which has an impressive gold and marble courtyard.

The centre of the courtyard is considered the midpoint between Istanbul and Mecca. The interior contains the ruins of the Christian Church of St Paul built over a temple dedicated to Jupiter, and is an architectural gem that harmoniously combines the Byzantine and Islamic styles. Inside the mosque there is also a marble monument commemorating the magnificent tomb of the legendary head of John the Baptist.

Damascus is also known for its souks (covered markets), built during the Ottoman period, each of which specializes in a trade or in one type of goods, such as brocade, embroidery, crystals, fine copper, silver, gold or spices. But also important in Damascus is the social life that can be seen in the great number of beautiful cafés where people gather to watch life pass quietly by.

Hama is another of the most attractive cities in Syria. It's known worldwide for its huge ancient waterwheels, some of them up to 20 meters in diameter. They were built to harness the waters of the Orontes and, despite being hundreds of years old, they continue running, slowly marking the passing of time in this quiet village. Hama is marked by the presence of the river which makes it a green city, full of gardens and small allotments in the suburbs.

Aleppo is the second largest city in Syria and with Damascus and Hama disputes the title of being the oldest continuously inhabited city in the world.

An outstanding feature is its perfectly preserved citadel with exceptional views of the city. During the Middle Ages it was a settlement on the Silk Road.

Perhaps one of the places that best combines art and history in Syria is Palmira, a town on the edge of the desert that was once a vital stop on the caravan route. The city was founded by the Syrians and its ruins keep alive the memory of the dazzling rule of Queen Zenobia, whose crushing defeat by the Romans made this city their capital.

Today, only breathtaking ruins remain of its past greatness, forming a remarkable archaeological site whose highlights are the Temples of Bel and Baalshamin, Monumental Avenue with its endless columns, the Amphitheatre, the Tetrapylon and the Valley of the Tombs.

The passage of the Crusaders through Syrian lands is also well reflected in the country’s architecture, particularly its fortresses and castles. Perhaps the construction that best represents this era is the huge castle “Krak des Chevaliers”, located in the mountains of Jabal one Nusayriyah, near the city of Homs, in the west of the country. It is considered the best-preserved medieval castle in the world.

Syria can be seen as a large open-air museum full of memories of the past where we might find a lost city, an ancient temple or a defensive fortress anywhere. Many of its mosques and buildings perfectly summarize the history of art in this country: mosques built upon ancient churches, which in turn were built upon Greco-Roman temples. It's the art of a people who have seen many cultures that have left an archaeological heritage which is hard to beat.

Syria is also a country of the senses, where smell, taste and touch are much more refined than in the West. The meaning of the flavours, smells and colours, more potent and varied than in other nations of the world, shapes life here. Indeed, streets and people smell like cinnamon, mandarin and sandalwood.  

However the most fascinating thing about this country is the hospitality, kindness and friendliness of its people.

PS: Although I do not know what the status of this beautiful country and its wonderful people is at the moment I have deliberately told only my memories of the cities I visited on this trip. Surely the war has destroyed many of them, but I still remember what I saw on this wonderful trip in the same way that I saw it then.

Nines