Many critics consider that jewellery isn’t real art. For them, jewellery is a craft. However, the acceptance of jewellery as art was promoted in the United States after World War II, when important museums such as the Museum of Modern Art in New York began exhibiting jewellery. Famous artists, among them Calder, Picasso and Dalí, have created wonderful jewellery designs.
The history of jewellery began at the same time that man was born. There isn’t any important culture in the world that hasn’t created jewellery. The first objects of jewellery came from Africa; perforated beads made from sea snail shells have been found which date from 75,000 years ago.
Jewellery has been used for different reasons:
- Wealth. Most cultures have stored large amounts of wealth in the form of jewellery.
- Symbolism, to show belonging. The Christian crucifix or the Jewish Star of David are symbols for Christians and Jews.
- Status. Jewellery has been used to denote status; in Egypt, for example, jewellery was a symbol of political and religious power.
Protection. The use of amulets or devotional medals provides protection.
- Functional use, such as clasps, pins, broches and buckles.
- Artistic display. In the late 19th century, the work of marvellous masters such as Fabergé and René Lalique changed the meaning of jewellery. From that moment on, jewellery would be more important as art than as a way to store wealth or denote status.
After this brief introduction, let me recommend to you the first jewellery exhibition organized by the Thyssen Bornemisza Museum, one of the most important art museums in Spain: “The Art of Cartier”. The museum has selected more than 400 pieces that reflect the history and stylistic evolution of Cartier designs. These include objects from the 1860s to the late 1990s, including “mystery clocks”, wrist watches, cigarette cases, necklaces, rings and symbolic objects for important events. But perhaps the most spectacular are the collections of tiaras, the different animal designs for brooches, bracelets and necklaces and the famous symbol of this firm, the panther.
Cartier created his own style. He began to use platinum instead of silver to solve the problem of silver oxydation. He not only worked with diamonds, gold, silver and pearls, but also with other semi-precious stones like lapis lazuli, turquoise, sapphire, jade, emerald... Onyx was one of his favourite materials; he combined onyx with diamond to create “the panther skin”, one of the most representative motifs of Cartier’s designs. He incorporated geometric lines and Art Deco and Art Nouveau styles into the designs of his brooches, bracelets and cigarette cases. He had a passion for exotic cultures and travelled to Egypt, Persia, China and India, assembling an enormous library with a wealth of books which would serve as inspiration for his jewellery designs.
Cartier had an important clientele. Not only the Russian, English and French monarchies, but even the maharajahs enjoyed Cartier jewellery and invested great amounts of money in Cartier pieces. During the first three decades of the 20th century, many of Europe’s aristocratic families and a new elite class would spend their money on jewellery, as well as the heirs to great American fortunes such as those of the Vanderbilt’s and the Ashton’s. Other faithful customers were actresses like Liz Taylor and María Felix. Cartier created for Maria Felix various pieces with animal motifs; the most famous was a snake necklace and a pair of rings.
Even if you don't like jewellery, I recommend the exhibition. I think it is a different way to go over 165 years of history from the end of the 19Th century to the present reflected in jewellery. The exhibition runs until the 17Th of February.
By the way, are you familiar with the trinity ring? It was created by Cartier in 1924 and is made with three interlinked rings; each made with a different gold: pink for love, yellow for fidelity and white for friendship.
Anyway, take advantage of the sales!. Maybe Cartier has some good deals. You never know…..
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